Rogue Territory Denim Goods - Premium Denim Custom Jeans

Rogue Territory Interprets the Canadian Tuxedo

2009-05-07T23:03:00.000-07:00

I know I've been talking about my readymade line for awhile. I wanted to give everyone a sneak peak at what's about to come.

Today's focus:

1. 14oz Japanese Kaihara Indigo Selvage Denim Jacket
2. 12oz Japanese Kaihara Brown Denim Low-Rise Slim Straight

More Jean Styles to follow. As of right now all styles will be produced in Limited Edition Denim and very Limited Quantities.

***Note: this denim jacket is my first sample, anticipate aesthetic and detail changes to the second sample. I must say that I do really like the denim and overall fit.

Kanye West in Rogue Territory Jeans

2009-05-02T20:57:00.000-07:00

Caught by the razzi in Hawaii while filming his new video "Amazing"
-make sure to look for them in the video when it airs

Denim: 13.5oz Indigo Redline Selvage Denim from Cone Mills
...Custom wash...

Rogue Territory on NBC!

2009-05-02T20:47:00.001-07:00

Check it out! I was interviewed by LXTV. My buddy Randy Freedman of Freedman clothing was featured as well!

Steven Lippman in Rogue Territory Jeans

2009-04-13T01:01:00.001-07:00

I made a custom pair of jeans for my friend and professional fashion photographer Steven Lippman and he sent me some pics of him and the jeans in action.

and here's a pic of him rippin' just because this pic is that rad.

Rogue Territory Collab Jeans for LeBron James

2009-04-10T08:05:00.000-07:00

A while back I designed 6 pairs of jeans for LeBron James under a side project I was involved with. Here's some pics of him rockin' the jeans!

It's unfortunate the Getty Images are so bad, the pair he's wearing for the photoshoot are really detailed.

Temple Bags

2009-03-30T20:34:00.000-07:00

Recently, I was introduced to this very cool down to Earth dude who, like me has a passion for hand crafted goods. Steve Opperman's his name, some of you extreme denim nerds may know that he was one of the creators of Iron Army, anyhow, he has started up his own line of hand crafted custom bags he's calling Temple Bags. I saw some of his work first hand and let me tell you, it's no joke.

He's got quite a talent for pairing the right materials (vintage fabrics and leathers) together to create some really gorgeous pieces.

here's a little sample of his work check out the rest of his work at his blog templebags.com

Kanye West Custom Rogue Territory Jeans Project Prt 2

2009-03-11T10:29:00.000-07:00

As promised, here are the rest of the Kanye Jeans I did some custom washes to. These are going to be amazing on him. Super light washes for the Spring and Summer. Of course it goes without saying that these are all Rogue Territory Jeans, from design to production expect nothing less.

Raw Japanese Selvage Jeans coming soon!!!

Rogue Territory-vintage project

2009-03-03T23:15:00.000-08:00

I bought a WWII jumpsuit from my friend Rafi over at Baz Bros Vintage with the intention of deconstructing them and making a more modern piece of clothing. Rafi actually turned me on to this project. So check out what I came up with. I forgot to take before pics but I'll get a hold of another jumpsuit to show you what it looked like before the work began.

Kanye West Custom Rogue Territory Jeans Project Prt 1

2009-03-01T20:49:00.000-08:00

So I am the first to admit, I haven't been on my blogging game lately, but I promise I'm going to make up for it. In the time I've been away from the computer I've been at the sewing machine and I will post all of the fruits of my labor soon.
I'd like to start with my most recent project. I've been working with Kanye West on designing 3 very vintage distressed pairs of jeans for his personal denim collection.

I hand painted the pocket lining and used selvage to finish the fly extensions

All back pockets are lined with heavy 8oz cotton twill

All 3 pairs of jeans are made out of Cone Selvage. 2 of the 3 pairs washes and abrasion are being reworked and I will be posting those soon.

Rogue Territory Custom Washes

2008-07-28T09:25:00.000-07:00

Starting at $80.00 Rogue Territory Custom Jeans will do your very own unique custom wash treatment. If you want the perfect fit but don't want to go the raw denim route, Rogue Territory can offer what ever you want in the distressed department as well. Anything from light stone washes with no holes to heavy hand sanding that'll make your jeans look like they've gone through a war. Stop by the shop and get your very first pair of custom fit and custom distressed jeans today!

Interviewed for Wealth TV!

2008-07-03T07:43:00.000-07:00

A month and a while ago Aaron Smallets from Wealth TV came and interviewed me. The piece they interviewed me for is called "The Best of Custom Menswear" Aaron was able to get a copy of the interview, so here it is!

Denim Accessories V.2-Sneakers

2008-06-30T09:15:00.000-07:00

Coming Soon...

Think about canvas while you're waiting. I'll complete the image after the jump.

2008-06-29T00:06:00.000-07:00

Big shout out to Denimhunt for posting about the shop on their blog!
Check it out:

http://denimhunt.typepad.com/denimhunt/denim_shoppe/index.html

A Break...

2008-06-25T23:23:00.000-07:00

From Denim :)

One of my favorite graf artists

Check out more of his work:

banksy.co.uk

Denim Accessories V.1 - Boots

2008-06-23T21:58:00.000-07:00

Ok, so a lot of you out there might be thinking to yourselves while you're reading this blog. "well, I know where to get the perfect jeans, but what do I wear with them once I have them?" Leave that to me. I have no problem throwing out some suggestions. So whenever i come across something I think looks great with denim I'll post it under "Denim Accessories". Now you know where to look.

First up: Boots - Redwing's
Everyone has to have at least one great looking pair of boots. For me, I like rugged looking work boots, but I'm not completely sold on super heavy duty boots, mainly because they have a heel, and I'm not too fond of heels on any of my shoes. So, personally speaking I found that I really have a thing for Redwing's that come with their patented crepe wedge sole. So here's some pics of a pair of boots I picked up while I was over in Japan.

Truth be told, Redwing Boots are say middle of the rung when you're focusing on quality of material and craftsmanship, but I do think they have a great and unique look to them. That being said, a pair of boots like these will last you a lifetime if you look after them.

Other Work Boots:

Lone Wolf: Mechanic

When it comes to heavy duty and high quality, a brand like Lone Wolf hits the mark. True, it is a difficult brand to purchase here in the states, but if you're ever in Japan you should check them out.

www.takeoff-clothing.com/shop/brand/20/1.html

White's Boots: Bullhide Lace Up Packer

White's Outdoor has roots from the White's Boot Company, which was founded in Virginia prior the Civil War. Recognizing a need to provide loggers of the Northwest with hand stitched, high quality work boots, White's moved westward to St. Maries, Idaho in 1902 and then to Spokane, Washington in 1915.

During it's over 100-year history, White's has maintained an unwavering focus on quality in the boots that it builds and the service that it provides.
Semi-Dress Boots:

whitesoutdoor.com

Semi-Dress Boots:

Red Wing Boots: 1914 The Gentleman Traveler Series

Red Wing 1911

The Red Wing Gentleman Traverler Series harkens back to a time when travel didn't include frequent flyer miles. Travel was difficult and often wrought with adversity but gentleman still needed to look smart and sophisticated along the way. Their shoes needed to navigate crushed gravel streets and then be polished and ready to impress. The Gentleman Traverler Series offers that required smart styling with Horween Leather

Rogue Territory Lookbook

2008-06-22T23:33:00.000-07:00

[Pics to come]

So I've been working on compiling most of the work of done to date. I'm super excited about the way it's coming out! I know you're as excited as I am, so if you want to check it out please send me an email letting me know. When it's finished I'll send it on over as a pdf file.

karl@rogueterritory.com

New Logo

2008-06-22T23:05:00.000-07:00

So I've been working on a bunch of new logo's for my jeans...this is what I've come up with thus far. The one circled in red is my favorite. Give me your feedback, love it, hate it whatever. thanks!

as promised...

2008-06-22T21:12:00.000-07:00

New Projects

2008-06-09T21:24:00.000-07:00

I've been busy these past few months, setting up shop, working on numerous projects for clients and having a blast doing it! With all this going on I have been able to find time to work on some jeans for myself. Here's a sneak peek at some of my work:

More pics to follow.

Rogue Territory's New Home

2008-02-29T09:40:00.000-08:00

I am happy to announce that Rogue Territory has a new home on the internet. Get all of Rogue Territory updates, facts, stories, tid-bits, and more at:

rogueterritory.com

Newest addition to the shop!

2008-02-26T20:38:00.000-08:00

The shop is coming together! The sign is up.

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Ad Concepts for Rogue Territory

2008-02-25T22:10:00.000-08:00

a bit amateur, but we had fun making them.

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Rogue Territory in Details Magazine

2008-02-20T21:28:00.000-08:00

Check it out!

Taken straight from page 144 in the March 2008 issue in Details Magazine. I typed it out word for word for y'all.
........

Where to Buy Your New Favorite Pair: Rogue Territory

Nothing will turn you into a bespoke-denim snob faster than an afternoon spent trying on baggy-assed five-pockets in a claustrophobic fitting room. L.A.'s new Rogue Territory, a denim altelier inside American Rag's World Denim Bar in Hollywood, makes bespoke and made-to-measure jeans with a huge variety of fabrics (raw indigo, Cone Mills selvedge), cuts (five-pocket, relaxed), and hardware (rivets and buttons in copper and silver). Better yet, owner Karl Thoennessen can clone the pair you've worn to death after just three 45-minute visits - which is probably less time than it would take to find a worthy option at a boutique. Custom pairs from $495

to see a full pic copy and paste the link below in your browser:
http://i30.tinypic.com/1yk6sl.jpg

BTW Altelier...I didn't know what it meant, I had to wikipedia it. So, for all those who are in the same boat, Altelier is the French word for "workshop".

Quote from Wikipedia:
"Atelier is a French word literally translated as "workshop". In English, it is used to refer to an artist's working studio, typically a fashion studio for Haute couture. It can also be used as shorthand for the Atelier Method, a style of art instruction."

I bet you didn't expect the free lesson :)

A New Addition...

2008-01-24T21:41:00.001-08:00

I am now the proud owner of 4 beautiful prints. The talented artist's name is Adam Styka. These prints have been in my family since I was little and are a true inspiration to me. And now as you can see, they are on the wall of my shop! If you want a closer look at these masterpieces copy the link below and paste it in your browser...or just come and visit me to see them in person:

http://www.stykafamilyart.com/adam_wild_west_03.html

A special thanks to Mom and Dad for sharing them with me.

New Pics Compliments of Adam Koniak

2008-01-24T10:23:00.000-08:00

Adam was nice enough to take time out of his busy schedule to take some great pics of me while I was at work. Thanks again Adam for all your help!

Don't wash the jeans!

2008-01-10T20:49:00.000-08:00

I know I know it's sounds weird, but it's true! Your jeans don't need to be washed like you wash your underwear, socks, shirts etc. Believe it or not jeans look better with age and wear. So let's break it down...

There are two types of premium denim out there:

There's the "treated" denim which covers all those jeans that have been washed and faded and all those other crazy things that are done to jeans to break them down.
Then, there's raw denim; which is untreated and kept beautiful and untainted in its natural form.

There are a few reasons why you shouldn't (don't need to) wash your jeans.
1. *Most Important* the indigo will fade much quicker. Jeans bleed naturally, the more you wear your jeans the more the indigo will fade in the areas that get worked the hardest. If you wash your jeans that natural process is ruined and you won't be able to salvage them.
2. Raw denim is usually rigid and is coated with a resin that helps keep the indigo from bleeding. If washed that resin melts which may cause the jeans to bleed more easily.
3. Denim is a tightly woven material which loosens up after each wear. When you wash your jeans the structure of the jean is changed.

That being said, treated denim can be washed more frequently than raw denim. Seeing as that treated jeans have already gone through prewashes and wearing stages.

Raw denim on the other hand should be worn often and washed only after 3-4 months of wear if you can hold out go 6 months before you wash them. When you're washing your jeans you should only wash them in cold water with minimal detergent, and HANG DRY them NEVER put them in the dryer.

Of course you can also dry clean your jeans.

there is one exception when it comes to getting your denim wet. If you buy a pair of raw denim jeans you can always where them in the bathtub or place them in the bathtub in cold or luke warm water. This is process is known as "shrink to fit." This is your the only time it is ok for your jeans to be in contact with water right after purchasing them :)
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Final note:

Always make sure you're wearing your jeans a hell of a lot more then you're washing them. Treat your jeans like they are a part of your body, when worn and cared for effectively they become a story book. Each owner wears their jeans differently so each pair of jeans tells a different story. That's what makes denim so exciting.

The Shop Is Open!

2008-01-07T20:52:00.000-08:00

The new shop is open. Come on in and visit me. I'm in the back right corner of the World Denim Bar at American Rag on the corner of La Brea and 2nd in Hollywood.

here's a few pics of me working at the shop:

Denim's Golden Age (Part 2)

2007-12-31T16:06:00.000-08:00

Before the mid 1950s selvage denim was the norm, every pair of jeans was made off of shuttle looms that produced 29” wide denim finished with white selvage. It wasn’t till the 1980s that this method of making denim was reestablished. What happened to the last 30 years in regards to selvage denim? Well, it all started with the growing demand for jeans after the great depression in the 1940s and 50s. Up until the 40s jeans were seen as work wear, nothing more. Jeans were the everyday wear of the blue-collar worker, everything from miners to railroad conductors. They all supported the denim.

[Picture taken from Denim Design Lab]

The war changed the world’s perception of the blue jean.
When war broke out over-seas, almost every manufacturer answered their call of duty by making products for the cause Levis was no different. Enlisted men were supplied with one pair of Levis Dungarees. When men were off duty and dressed in their civilian’s clothes they were most likely wearing Levis. (This was the world’s first introduction to blue jeans, and the need for them was instantaneous.) To save on thread Levis painted their iconic arcuates on their back pockets, this may have been where a certain fanatical denim company called Evis later changed to Evisu got their idea for painting their gulls on the back pockets.

Let’s skip ahead to 1945, the troops are home and they’ve now adopted jeans as their “civi” clothes. Jeans, still held the connotation for being worn for the dirty work, but would soon become a cult phenomenon that would change the denim industry into what it is today.
Levis and other denim companies saw a new market to fit so they advertised accordingly. Instead of seeing adverts specifically geared towards workers you see them shift to families.

[Picture taken from Denim Design Lab]

Where better to make your mark on the world then in Hollywood? Marlon Brando and James Dean are two of the most well known movie stars to be seen wearing blue jeans on the silver screen. The roles these stars played perpetuated a stereotype that had been attached to the blue jean. They were rebellious. Who ever wore blue jeans was making a statement…they were against the establishment.

[Picture taken from Denim Design Lab]

The cult classic was born. The need for blue jeans spread like wildfire.
It was only when the demand for denim was greater then the mills production abilities that they ditched the old looms in order to make room for the newest manufacturing marvel, the open-end loom or OE loom which was designed to produce up to 60” of denim per yard versus the vintage shuttle looms 29” per yard.

A world thirsty for denim saw no need for selvage, so the shuttle looms were stored, trashed and shipped overseas where they lay dormant awaiting their day to spark a whole new kind of cult…the classics revival.

What is Selvage Denim? (Part 1)

2007-12-22T21:34:00.000-08:00

Preface:
First off, in the denim community this term can be spelled one of 2 ways either selvage or selvedge both mean the same thing.

Argument:
I'm not going to try and sell anyone on Selvage Denim, instead I thought it'd be best to try and educate you all on some of the products that are out there...please let me know if this is at all confusing.

The Information:
Selvage or Selvedge is the term given to the uncut edge of the fabric which is on the right- and left-hand edges as it comes out of the loom. As such it is 'finished' and will not fray because the weft threads double back on themselves. We can also refer to this finished edge as the "self-edge". So, the term selvage can be applied to any fabric that has its edges finished by the loom.

Warp: Yarn that runs parallel to selvedge. In denim, it’s dyed indigo.
Weft: Weft, or filling yarn, runs from selvedge at right angles to warp yearn. In denim, this yarn is left a natural, undyed color.

A Brief History:
Denim hits the blue collar scene in a big way at the turn of the 20th century. This fabric was a favorite of wranglers, cowboys, railroad workers, and miners alike. The fabric proved to be resilient to say the least. As demand for dungarees and bib-overalls ("Union-alls") increased so did the competition. At this time there were only a handful of competitors and an even fewer number of mills that produced this wonder fabric. The top mill was Cone Mills located in South Carolina. The top players in the denim industry were Levis Strauss, Lee Jeans, Blue Bell, and a few others such as Can't Bust'Em Jeans, but the first three are the major competitors. Since Cone was the major supplier it was imperative that they had a way to distinguish their clients product, thus they started using different color stripes in the finished edges of the fabric, what we all know now as the selvage. This distinguishing characteristic also proved to be a great marketing tool. Levis was the trailblazer and chose to use a red and white striped selvage, Lee used a green and white stripe, and Blue Bell or Wrangler (as we know them today) a yellow and white stripe. Brand recognition had been established and loyal customers lived and died by their denim. This was the beginning of denims amazing transformation. Coming soon, denim's Golden Age...
Until then here is some examples of selvage denim (pics taken from Blue in Green)